Surveying Waco’s growing fine dining landscape
Waco’s dining landscape was once dominated by fast food and what could generously be called “fast casual.” With few exceptions, the best way to enjoy fine dining in Waco was to drive to Dallas or Austin for the night.
Things have most certainly changed.
Waco’s conspicuous growth over the past decade has seen options for fine dining grow and multiply. White linen tablecloths, impeccable service and haute cuisine are no longer an entire day’s investment, but can be found (with free parking and no need to valet) right here in Waco. Take your pick:
135 Prime — In the world of steaks, the gold standard for beef is Akaushi, which is renowned for its superior marbling and intense flavor. Fine dining enthusiasts in big cities go in search of the label on menus, knowing that it is a rarity and predominantly found in the finest of restaurants.
In Waco, one need look no further than 135 Prime, where Akaushi is the standard for their filets and ribeyes. Whether adorned by the diner’s choice of sauces (the Marsala Mushroom is a great compliment) or straight off the flames, their steaks have indulged Central Texas palates for over a decade. To really take that indulgence over the top, 135 Prime offers a duck fat glaze on steaks, to amplify the umami and broaden the flavors of each steak.
They also are the only place in the region that offers Chateaubriand, a classic presentation that has traditionally been the purview of white linen tablecloth fine dining in major metropolitan areas. Servers at 135 Prime carve the dish tableside in a flair of sophistication one might not expect without nearby skyscapers.
The ambience is modern steakhouse, lush with dark wood and subtle lighting, and the non-steak dishes and sides do nothing to diminish the fine dining experience. Chilean Sea Bass, Lobster Thermidor, two different risottos and a Four Cheese Mac and Cheese that could serve as its own main course compliment the steak offerings on the menu.
But, despite the excellent options, steak is the focus here, and rightly so. Because when they are this exceptional, they elevate an entire dining experience.
Bertie’s on the Rooftop — If you’re getting all “fixed up” to go out in Waco, there’s little reason not to visit the epicenter of “fixing up” things. Built in the shell of the old Grand Karem Shrine Building in downtown Waco, Hotel 1928 is the luxury hospitality project of Baylor alumni Chip and Joanna Gaines. The property features a coffee shop, a traditional brasserie and, of course, a hotel.
But the apex of the property is literally at the top. Bertie’s on the Rooftop is an intimate, limited-seating restaurant that focuses on the finer details. The décor, which is unlike any of the “Fixer Upper” couple’s other projects, is bathed in green tones and floral touches, and vintage elegance is the vibe.
On the menu, fresh flavors dominate and share space with elevated seafood, poultry and steak main courses. The Seared Sea Bass and Cedar Plank Salmon ensure that Waco has access to fresh seafood that it has previously had trouble offering, and the Wild Mushroom and Leek Risotto will make the most ravenous carnivore appreciate a vegetarian order.
Bertie’s really shines its most brilliant in two facets, however. The rooftop view on the terrace is second to none, showing a 270-degree view of Waco and Baylor. And, the Crispy Sweet Potatoes on the appetizer menu are a revelation.
Shore up a reservation, dress up in your finest and press “up” on the elevator at Hotel 1928 to elevate your night.
Butcher’s Cellar — The chef celebrity trend has made its way to Waco, and it has elevated the dining scene along with it. Butcher’s Cellar features not one, but two culinary innovators, direct from competing on Gordon Ramsey’s Hell’s Kitchen. And, after being refined by Ramsey’s fiery guidance and feedback, Alejandro Nadar and Alyssa Osinga have taken all they know and all they’ve learned and brought it to bear on Central Texas.
Both chefs have history in the Midwest and Northeast, so the menu and design feel slightly reflective of old steakhouses and historic hotel lobbies, but that’s where the reflection ends. The menu, which showcases Najar’s Mediterranean and Middle Eastern palate and Osinga’s refined skill with vegetables, showcases some inspired choices.
Seafood and steaks are prepared with nods to fusion trends. Pickled Pepper Chimichurri is available with any of the streaks, and the Pork Tomahawk is accented by a Miso Maple Butter. The menu is also punctuated by a few Wagyu offerings, like Wagyu Bao and a Waygu Carne Asada.
But if the surf and turf are the headliners, the sides and appetizers steal the show. Baked Mac & Cheese has been resoundingly endorsed, and the Corn Ribs are evolving into a local favorite. The gold medal winner is the 1000-Layer Potato, which has had a moment on social media, but takes the skill of a gifted chef to reach its summit — which the Butcher’s Cellar makes possible.
Di Campli’s — Mossimo Di Campli started at Magnolia Table, helping define their line-around-the-block-daily menu and offerings. In return, Joanna Gaines helped him and his team design a great Italian bistro.
Since then, Di Campli’s has proudly offered fine dining to the Waco community, plating up Italian classics like Mussels and Clams, Arancini and an unparalleled Burrata for diners searching for a more refined dining experience.
With plenty of favorites on their A La Carte menu, which allows diners to sample different items from the Di Campli’s kitchen, the restaurant focuses on “big night” dining, with multiple courses to fuel long discussions, shared laughter and memorable gatherings.
Certainly, pasta holds sway over the menu, with gnocci, ravioli and chitarra pasta all made in-house. The mains hold their own, however, with Pollo Roulade — a ham and provolone stuffed chicken breast in a cream sauce — standing out among a host of exceptional dishes.
Save some room, however, as Di Campli’s also holds Waco’s best-kept secret in its dessert menu. Whether ordering the sublime Lemon-Ricotta Cheesecake, which balances the sweet of sugar and cream cheese with the inclusion of Ricotta, or the Affogato, the bookend of your evening is sure to be sweet.
Diamondback’s — The elder statesman of Waco’s fine dining scene, Diamondback’s is everything one could ask of dining out in Waco. Open for nearly 30 years, the décor and trappings have not changed much. Linen tablecloths still adorn the tables. Service is still as prompt and attentive as ever. The rich, dark wood aesthetic still provides an ideal environment for great conversation.
The cuisine is reminiscent of fine steakhouses in Dallas, Austin, San Francisco and New York, with seared cuts of prime beef, decadent sides that include tempura asparagus and lobster mac and cheese, and a variety of seafood offerings that’s more than impressive.
And, if fine dining on a budget makes your night out even better, they have the best values in town on their daily specials. Attentive to details and constantly refining the finer points of fine dining, Diamondback’s is a place that can elevate any night on the town, and has been for almost three decades.
Red Herring — The newest player on the Waco fine dining scene, Red Herring hit the ground running, to almost universal applause. Brought to the area by the minds behind Milo and Waco’s new destination boutique hotel, Hotel Herringbone, Red Herring combines elegance with exceptional culinary execution, by way of the 1970s, the Mediterranean and the art-centric culture of places like Santa Fe and Marfa, Texas.
If that seems like a lot to combine, it never feels that way when dining at Red Herring. The various elements achieve a harmony that is obvious when one opens the door. Entering the restaurant is not only breathtaking, but immediately transports diners to a bustling metropolis, straight out of books like The Great Gatsby. This is Waco elegance, literally at its finest.
Leather and mid-century modern furnishings, replete with plush patterns throughout, compliment the mood lighting and the uniform-clad staff, completing the vision that has most asking, “Am I still in Waco?”
Further adding to the vision, the menu features dishes that don’t just push the culinary envelope, they introduce new elements to the region. Hamachi Aguachile, a favorite of James Beard award-winning restaurants in Austin and Dallas, sparkles with piquant spice and citrus. The Squid Ink Bucatini, which pairs hearty noodles with seafood and Spanish chorizo, has already established itself as a Waco dining standout.
Beyond the menu and its adventurousness, Red Herring has one more flourish: establishing a raw bar to a city that has long clamored for one. Meticulously sourced oysters and shellfish are offered according to seasonal availability and quality, and Red Herring now makes it possible to order a half-dozen or a dozen of the finest shellfish, accompanied by a subtle mignonette and all the trappings.
If Red Herring is any indication, Waco’s fine dining scene is not only impressive, but is only getting better.
Whether for a graduation, Homecoming, birthday, or other special occasion — or just because you’re feeling fancy — such options offer Wacoans and visitors a fine selection of fine dining options, just minutes from Baylor’s campus.
Sic ’em, fine diners!
[Pictured above, L-R: Sweet potatoes at Bertie’s on the Rooftop, the interior at Butcher’s Cellar, and a meal at Red Herring. Photos courtesy of Bertie’s on the Rooftop (left), Butcher’s Cellar (center), and Kayla Enright (right)]